Review ACNE S/S16 RTW

PHOTO © 2015 TEAM PETER STIGTER

In 1997, a creative from Stockholm named Jonny Johansson made a hundred pairs of raw denim jeans with red stitching, which he then handed out to friends. At the time he had just founded a creative collective that focused on graphic design, film, production and advertising, which was aptly named ACNE: Ambition to Create Novel Expressions. Who would have guessed back then that these jeans would evolve into the successful international fashion house known to us as Acne Studios today!

The Spring Summer 2016 collection is charged with Johansson’s passion for music: spacey CD circle prints, perspex guitars and knits that look as though they were deliberately clawed out. There were beautiful 80ies inspired shoulder padded blazers with color blocked areas and bold, exaggerated pockets, and abstract shapes tailored as dresses. The look that stood out most- was the red velvet dress paired with thigh-high red crocodile boots and statement black shades, and then there were those awesome sound wave printed tee-tops and long sleeves.

We all have our favourites and Acne’s Spring Summer S/S16 is- without a doubt one of ours. It’s not the first time a designer draws inspiration from music and youth cultures: YSL’s Hedi Slimane for example is known for documenting youth subcultures revolving around music and using them as an inspiration for his collections. But Acne’s S/S16 has little to do with fatalistic youths and features no leopard print, torn jeans and other punk parafernalia. It is a more playful and endearing collection, that looks back with a grin of nostalgia at the 80ies and 90ies with their androgynous jackets, abundance of velvet, experimental hairdo’s and cultural developments, inspired by music. And it adds its fair share of novelty as well, with survival-style black overbra’s and handbags literally wrapped around the hand – items that could have saved all our awkward hair phases back in the day.

You can view ACNE S/S16 here.