Review Dries van Noten S/S16

PHOTO © 2015 TEAM PETER STIGTER

“Flamboyant, bold, impulsive, vivacious, observant, infatuated, jubilant, kinky, fearless, flirtatious.”

That is how Dries van Noten describes his S/S16 collection in the show notes. And the collection lives up to every word of it. We know the Belgian designer as one who is not afraid of combining a multitude of fabrics, prints and applications and he is a master at coordinating these elements in such a way that they form an unlikely harmonic explosion of magnificent details.

The collection combines androgynous jackets with feminine dresses and skirts, resulting in a fearless flamboyance that slightly reminds us of early Yves Saint Laurent: 1940s-style slips, tulle baby-doll dresses and pink bustier tops with and fine tailored strides. The models walked down the runway in beautiful bright silk jacquards, androgynous jackets, dresses and luxurious three-quarter-length, layered skirts- as the Balanescu quartet performed in the center of the runway. There was a mix of masculine and feminine silhouettes: a pair of pleat-front jeans with a Prince of Wales-check coat followed by a powdery pink printed slip hemmed in canary yellow tulle, and solid shapes were exaggerated with bows and asymmetric ruffles. Bustier tops were worn over henna-printed sheer sleeves and shirts were buttoned up and fastened with a brooch at the neck.

Dries told Vogue that his collection is for the flamboyant woman, who wants to show herself and is not afraid to mix. But it’s not just that: this collection can make any woman want to become flamboyant.