Martin Margiela’s essence of transformation and John Galliano’s sense of drama and theatrical presentation is perhaps the most beautiful merge of concepts we’ve seen this runway season.
John Galliano is back! He continues to amaze after his London debut for the Maison and presented Margiela’s Artisanal Artistry AW 2015 collection in Paris. The models stormed the runway in dramatic silhouettes completed with impeccable makeup, inspired by expressionism, transforming each model in to a character of its own. It is a collection full of surprise elements and hidden charms, to be viewed from different angles to capture the full story of the garments, in line with what we are used to from the Maison’s namesake.
The essence of most of the garments seems to be laid the at the back; French bows, a bonded silk cotton obi- to substantial parts of coats attached to the dresses- creating extraordinary silhouettes. A model walks down the runway in a black silk oriental dress, but as she turns around it becomes clear that the back of the dress exists out of a coat- attached by straps on to the dress. The potato sack never looked so pleasing as Galliano’s interpretation of it- turning a simple consumer product into a luxury hand painted dress with detailed embroidery, bunched together in front by a perky French bow. Then there were the outrageous shoes on the runway; half pump, half pizza-cutters. Perhaps the biggest surprise of the show, were the 3 male models appearing on the runway among their female counterparts.
Galliano carries the industries rising interest for gender neutrality forward, as mixed- gender shows are becoming the growing new norm. He proved everyone that he’s still in the game- born to create- in his role as creative director for Maison Martin Margiela. Honoring the classic integral Margiela code of reappropriation of garments along with the ability to apply his signature sense of dramatic imaginative couture. Galliano is taking the Maison to the next chapter of its legacy and we can’t wait to see more in the near future.